Had really good day yesterday at the National Safari Park and Zoo. Got really close to lions and both yellow and white tigers. Here is where we hope to be travelling, although only the first part, South India, has been confirmed. Coach to Cochin in Kerala, then a full day and night on a houseboat on a freshwater lake on the coast. Air conditioned car for all travelling in Kerala. Then onto wildlife reserve, a tea estate and hill station for another night. Travel back to Cochin before overnight a/c bus back to Bangalore for Easter Sunday. Planned but not yet received the tickets! Overnight sleeper train to Hampi (rather like an Indian Thebes) for a couple of nights, then sleeper train to Hyderabad. Couple of days break in Hyderabad, dropping off big luggage and laptop. Saturday – very fast overnight express to Agra. 2 full days in Agra. Again we have an a/c car for travel around N. India. Tuesday, Wednesday – 2 days in a tiger reserve, with trips to try and find really wild tigers. Friday, full day in Jaipur town. Sunday, full day sightseeing in Jodhpur. Tuesday, full day in Jaiselmar. Wednesday/Thursday, travel to Udaipur, stopping off in Jodhpur to catch up on anything we missed in first stop. Friday/Saturday morning Lots to see in Udaipur, by a lake, town with a couple of palaces and a fort (one of the palaces is an island on the lake). Saturday afternoon, fly back to Hyderabad, to meet up with Eleazer, Madhu, Mahima, and our bags. Stay with them for 1 week before BA flight back to UK on 9th May. The travel days will be leisurely, arriving in time each day for some initial exploratory sightseeing, and anything interesting en route.
Thursday 6 August 2009
Greetings from Bangalore (20.3.09)
What a difference a couple of weeks make. We are now very comfortably installed in the Bishop's Guest House, just next door to his house, at the bottom end of Mahatma Ghandi Road. Not too many supermarkets or historic sights very near, but we have enough for our needs. We are both getting good practice at cooking curries. JG is helping out at Arpana, a school for mentally handicapped children, leading up to vocational training for young adults. PG is in the Diocesan office, doing spreadsheets for the church accounts, and planning teaching pastors in initial computer use up to how to use the accounts spreadsheet he has drawn up.
We went to see Slumdog Millionaire at the cinema last night; very gripping, but we could see why it caused such an uproar in India. There wasn't a lot of good news in it, and it did show the rough underside of a very urban civilisation; Sao Paulo could have just as bad slums. But the goodie triumphed in the end.
Back in Bangalore (13.3.09)
I never expected to be in Bangalore again, it really is "The Garden of India", very green and cool. It was really hard to leave Dornakal, we had made so many friends there and were so very comfortable in our courtyard garden with wonderful food, though that did change when we were fed for the final week by another hostel. The last night there was a farewell in the Cathedral, with speeches from community leaders. We had so many garlands, over 20 each I think, and a few more shawls.
We then had supper with the Bishop and his family, it was a late night. We'd hoped to leave quietly without having to say goodbye again and walked to the station during Morning Prayer, but we were joined by hostel and clergy there were more garlands and gifts plus snacks for our journey. The four hour journey was very relaxing apart from having to pay the porters fares back to Dornakal as they didn't manage to get off in time, our luggage was so vast!
Our days in Hyderabad were spent with a family, touring the city (we were lent a driver and guide by Eleazer who we were staying with) He works for a medical software firm AxSys who have a big office in Glasgow. Tuesday we travelled overnight on an air conditioned coach with fully reclining seats. I slept until 6.30am and were met at 8.00am by the driver Henri who I got on so well before. We are staying in a lovely room at Vishranti. The Bishop's secretary has been to see us and will arrange a programme for about six weeks. We are to help out today at a special school.
All change while writing this on Wednesday, Henri arrived to tell us we were to move to the Bishop's guest house, BP is away in Israel with 20 clergy for the week. Henry took us to the supermarket and we stocked up as we are to be doing our own cooking! We bought only Indian food apart from two tins of tuna for the vegetarian, appalling cost! Then straight onto the school no time to unpack. The evening meal I insisted on doing; PR tonight, okra curry, dahl, rice and papaya. The leftovers I fried for breakfast. The kitchen has everything including a microwave and washing machine. May have to learn how to use a pressure cooker again, as most people use one.
A Tribal Village (28.2.09)
We have just spent five days in a tribal village Peddammapparam; we were dreading it! But it turned out wonderfully. We stayed in the living room of the superintendant of a Child Development Centre. A little congested with two extra beds in there. I got the "table" bed, PR the webbing one. No pillows or bedding. We had such a good time though.
Most of the people worked in the fields, others spinning cotton or hand weaving. (PR had a go, but much trickier than it looks, luckily he only did a couple of rows so didn't spoil a long length of cloth.) We spent time in their homes, all faiths asked us to visit. We walked crocodile style with the children to school, but it caused uproar when we got there, so spent time watching from a window. We were able to go on three walks to the nearby lakes (tanks where their water comes from) watch the sunset & saw water snakes swimming . We walked back with the field workers & the buffaloes. We were given many gifts of groundnuts. A games afternoon was declared & we got to organise the games- just like being back at Moat school back in Gloucester. PR played badminton, but the one shuttlecock didn't last long.
The last morning we had to leave at 6.00am for a two hour auto ride back to Dornakal for the delayed re-dedication of the Epiphany Cathedral. It took 3.5 hours with a massive breakfast stop and we arrived as the two drum bands & dancers were warming up – I still had to struggle into my sari! I get lots of help with it, but it takes longer the more people are involved. PR had to give "Greetings from Gloucester", the first of many tributes made to the work, and to the people who had done it.
We spent a long day at a tribal hostel yesterday after preaching at the 7.00am service, I was then asked to preach in the afternoon, would have been easier if I had kept notes or a Bible with me. The days are getting hotter, 36 degrees C in the church yesterday. The plan is, at the end of next week to spend a few days in Hyderabad, leave one bag there and then go on to Bangalore for a month, staying at the same place I was at before; then travel. Plans here get altered almost without notice, and we are not quite used to it yet!
Nalugu – A Pre-Betrothal Ceremony (14.2.09)
Beulah, the Headmaster's daughter here at Madiripuram is to be married this month. It is an arranged marriage and even among the young Christian society is felt to be the best way. The engagement ceremony was arranged after the couple met for the first time and agreed to the marriage. Although we were invited (beautiful and ornate invitations) to both the Betrothal ceremony and the wedding we were really disappointed to learn that we will no longer be at this project as the Bishop, who will conduct the ceremonies, requires our room!
We were consoled by an invitation to the Nalugu ceremony which took place last night. In my best sari & Paul in his smartest Indian attire we walked next door but one to the Headmaster's house. The path was intricately decorated with chalk rangoli patterns; the hostel boys were stringing mango leaves where ever they could, and we were welcomed with a paste of sandalwood and turmeric; on the hand for Paul, under the chin and all over the feet for me.
Many visitors were there, summoned by the drums, it was really difficult to make yourself heard over them! The bride to be and a young girl (part of he tradition) were seated on low stools in the middle of all. Hymns were sung, the band now with the addition of a clarinet, a Bible reading, talk & prayers followed. Then the fun began. One by one we put three helpings of rice grain on their heads and gave them a blessing. The women then took oil, water, turmeric and sandalwood paste and plastered it where they could on the bride to be.
It was good that Beulah was not wearing her best sari as some of the women were rather bold in their reach! Snacks served on mango leaves followed; savoury nibbles, sweets, a very hard nut and a banana for each person. A washed Beulah appeared in a beautiful new sari bought by her parents. A very happy evening which ended with a meal with Martin Luther (the Head), his extended family and the neighbours.
The Day in Madiripuram (14.2.09)
Our day begins with the relentless squeaking of the water pump as the girls begin their day at 5.00am. We have been in Madiripuram for two weeks now; it is called a village but consists of a High School, two hostels; boys and girls, and simple houses for the staff. The children are from the tribal villages and many of their parents are illiterate, but the standard of education here is high and the school is top of the government exam table. There are 450 children here the youngest being 5 years old, the oldest 16. English is taught from the 6th class when the children are 10 years old. All are friendly, all want to communicate, which is a little intimidating when there are crowds of them. We have had many rewarding conversations; they are great fun, very caring and delight in feeding us snacks.
Separate prayers take place at 7.00am, three very lively songs, a Bible reading and short message, which I deliver, followed by prayer. They then learn the scripture verse for the day, class by class. A monthly competition with a prize is held to encourage them!
Breakfast is at 8.00am and is much anticipated, always different, always spicy. This week the electricity is off between 10.00am and 6.00pm, the temperature is now 32 degrees C in the middle of the day and we miss the cooling fans. As our room has no windows we must read and work outside.
School begins at 10.00am, as they have their own spoken English teacher we have not been asked to teach. We always find someone to talk to or to visit and have been allowed to take the bus into the next village (3kms, 3 rupees = 4p) where there are lots of small shops and workshops to marvel at. Yesterday we walked to a small lake, which the locals call a tank, cool and scenic. We have spent time with the hostel cooks, who prepare and cook the food outside on an open fire, always rice, always lots of whole chillies and handfuls of salt, we are given a little to taste. I have been allowed to pump water for them but failed to get the large, round metal pot near to my shoulder.
After lunch, cooked here at the Pastor's home, comes rest for those over 16. A tiny cup of tea for us at 4.00pm and a snack for the children. Then a time for sports; the children are keen for us to participate, age being no barrier! A whole article needs to be devoted to their sports which, except for cricket & basketball are very different to ours. Those working for the 10th standard government exams in March continue to study alone dotted round on the sand of the sports field, they can be seen there too as soon as it's light in the morning.
Evening prayer in the separate hostels takes place at 7.00pm and again we give the message with the aid of a translator. Supper for us is a movable feast and much depends on who we are visiting that evening. Each day ends with the ritual of foot washing. We sleep soundly till the squeaking pump wakes us the next day.
Greetings from Khammam (20.1.09)
Khammam is noisy and busy, but the polio rehabilitation hostel is a little oasis of calm, the young people make lots of noise & laughter. The girls have been climbing the trees to collect coconuts and guavas. They delight in "thwacking" their washing soon after 5.00am each morning.
Some are only just returning from their Christmas holiday as they took in Pongal - harvest festival - too, very colourful with kite flying & rangoli patterns on the streets. We are having power cuts for two hours twice a day now. Paul plays badminton until breakfast, but still gets to shower & shave in the gloom. I find it extremely difficult getting the sari on in the dark whilst being attacked by mosquitoes.
We led a two hour Sunday school this week, lots of action songs & we did a drama involving the 100+ there. At the end we were presented with a gift of six glass dishes; a bit of a problem really as we had five large cooking bowls for Christmas together with small colourful ornaments. We have left half our luggage in Dornakal as we return there by train for meetings about the hopefully forthcoming computer centre Paul's to install there. I get to "preach" at the Women's Fellowship two hour fast & prayer meeting on Friday. I take part in the girl's prayer at 7.00am and we join with staff prayer at 9.00am so are well catered for. We are eating more simply at the hostel, chapattis with curried potatoes being a feature (I will be bigger on my return!) but feast when asked out- three deserts last night, cake followed by papaya, then fruit salad, we politely refused the bananas.
We are visiting the villages again with the physiotherapist, the people are very poor but so welcoming, the journey always exciting as we travel by auto as they take the buffalo herds out to feed, I always think something will get impaled on their horns. I have been spending time with the elderly in the residential home in the hospital grounds. There is a team of twelve surgeons from the US and the UK here for two weeks operating 8.00am-8.00pm each day.
Paul has brought a mosquito bat (to go with the catapult to repel monkeys) it's like a tennis racket, recharchable, frazzles any mossies it comes into contact with; keeps Paul very
active!
Some are only just returning from their Christmas holiday as they took in Pongal - harvest festival - too, very colourful with kite flying & rangoli patterns on the streets. We are having power cuts for two hours twice a day now. Paul plays badminton until breakfast, but still gets to shower & shave in the gloom. I find it extremely difficult getting the sari on in the dark whilst being attacked by mosquitoes.
We led a two hour Sunday school this week, lots of action songs & we did a drama involving the 100+ there. At the end we were presented with a gift of six glass dishes; a bit of a problem really as we had five large cooking bowls for Christmas together with small colourful ornaments. We have left half our luggage in Dornakal as we return there by train for meetings about the hopefully forthcoming computer centre Paul's to install there. I get to "preach" at the Women's Fellowship two hour fast & prayer meeting on Friday. I take part in the girl's prayer at 7.00am and we join with staff prayer at 9.00am so are well catered for. We are eating more simply at the hostel, chapattis with curried potatoes being a feature (I will be bigger on my return!) but feast when asked out- three deserts last night, cake followed by papaya, then fruit salad, we politely refused the bananas.
We are visiting the villages again with the physiotherapist, the people are very poor but so welcoming, the journey always exciting as we travel by auto as they take the buffalo herds out to feed, I always think something will get impaled on their horns. I have been spending time with the elderly in the residential home in the hospital grounds. There is a team of twelve surgeons from the US and the UK here for two weeks operating 8.00am-8.00pm each day.
Paul has brought a mosquito bat (to go with the catapult to repel monkeys) it's like a tennis racket, recharchable, frazzles any mossies it comes into contact with; keeps Paul very
active!
Indian Standard Time (18.1.09)
Our first meeting with Indian Standard Time (IST) was in England. Jeni dropped us off at Gloucester bus station in plenty of time but the bus was 40 minutes late, we were so relieved to see it! Take off from Heathrow was delayed by another 40 minutes. Arrival in Hyderabad was on time though, but one of our bags was on Indian Standard Time, and had missed the plane and didn’t get to Dornakal until over a week later. At the very new Rajiv Ghandi airport we had a real Indian welcome. As we walked out of the arrival lounge there were 2 smiling faces holding up a sign for us. We were driven from Hyderabad to Dornakal, about 5 hours travel, including a breakfast stop through some marvellous scenery. But there seems to be no rules of the road, traffic was chaotic in the towns but no collisions.
In Dornakal we were given a lovely large guest room in the Diocese Junior College Boy’s Hostel, cool, and with its own en suite facilities, but no sink! The fitting of a flush cistern to the toilet was done in a day or two. The boys in the hostel were friendly and helpful, they liked to practice their English, especially ‘What is your name?’ and ‘How are you?’ We also learnt a little Telegu, the local language, ‘Vandanalu’ (thank you) and ‘Baganara/Bagananu’ (how are you/I am well). There we met Helen Colson a teacher from King’s School, and together visited schools and hostels. In the Epiphany Cathedral Compound at Dornakal there are 5 schools and 8 children’s hostels. We helped with some teaching and played games & sang to the children.
Bishop Devamani, a very active and energetic bishop, with 74 pastorates, he is closely involved in the projects across his Diocese. He is passionately interested in the care and education of the children, both in the Compound Hostels and in the many schools run by the Church of South India in his area. He attended a total of 30 Christmas ‘Functions’ where staff and children put on cultural activities and Christmas plays, food is also provided. As we don’t have Bishop Devamani’s stamina it was fortunate that most of the Functions had already taken place before we arrived. As the Bishop is so involved, he seldom gets away on time and so the next function is delayed. Indian Standard Time begins. The first ‘Function’ we were invited to was due to start at about 6.00pm, but the Bishop had been delayed by earlier business and didn’t arrive until after 9.00, food wasn’t served until 11.00pm. Jane was given a beautiful sari by the Women’s Fellowship, but it took a lot of learning how to wear it correctly.
We visited Khammam, a local town about the size of Gloucester, and the outbound local train was almost on time, but the long distance return express train was on Indian Standard Time and came in over ½ hour late. Morning prayers we were told were held in the Cathedral at 9.00am each morning, we were dubious as the Cathedral was being re-roofed and re-painted inside and out ready for Christmas and the rededication service by Bishop Michael; true to form, Indian Standard Time happened, and each morning we joined the Diocesan Staff in the Bishop’s Chapel at 9.30 –ish. The Christmas Day service began at 4.00am and ended with wonderful greetings at 7.00. Later on Christmas day, on English Time, we were able to talk to both Amanda and Nicola by Hotmail Conference.
Changing to Indian food took a little time. We are not given the mouth-blowing curries that some people thought we might, but even a mild curry for breakfast does wake you up! Despite wanting to eat with the boys, we were served our meals in our room; perhaps the boy’s meals would have contained far too many chillies for our stomachs. We both had clothes made for us, Jane a Salwar Kamise and Paul, 2 shirts and 2 pairs of trousers, which were to be ready for Christmas, but again Indian Standard Time happened and the clothes arrived for New Year. Despite the lack of haste, everybody is so kind and generous to us, it is no bother. During Christmas we received many invitations to spend time with extended families. We now have more than enough clothes, to ensure that we won’t have too much space in our luggage for the return journey. The picture below shows us with Christopher, our hostel superintendant, decked out in his Christmas best, Jane in her new Sari, and Paul’s new shirt.
We have settled in well. The people we meet are so welcoming and friendly that we feel very privileged. The climate is pleasant, with morning to evening sunshine and day time temperatures of 25 C. and a pleasant 18 C. at night. The countryside is very fertile, with chillies, cotton, rice, lentils and peanuts. It is much greener than we expected and Dornakal is a thriving town, very unlike the ghost town environment we expected. We have moved to Khammam and are staying at the St. Mary’s Polio Girl’s Hostel since the start of January, but we will tell you about that next month.
In Dornakal we were given a lovely large guest room in the Diocese Junior College Boy’s Hostel, cool, and with its own en suite facilities, but no sink! The fitting of a flush cistern to the toilet was done in a day or two. The boys in the hostel were friendly and helpful, they liked to practice their English, especially ‘What is your name?’ and ‘How are you?’ We also learnt a little Telegu, the local language, ‘Vandanalu’ (thank you) and ‘Baganara/Bagananu’ (how are you/I am well). There we met Helen Colson a teacher from King’s School, and together visited schools and hostels. In the Epiphany Cathedral Compound at Dornakal there are 5 schools and 8 children’s hostels. We helped with some teaching and played games & sang to the children.
Bishop Devamani, a very active and energetic bishop, with 74 pastorates, he is closely involved in the projects across his Diocese. He is passionately interested in the care and education of the children, both in the Compound Hostels and in the many schools run by the Church of South India in his area. He attended a total of 30 Christmas ‘Functions’ where staff and children put on cultural activities and Christmas plays, food is also provided. As we don’t have Bishop Devamani’s stamina it was fortunate that most of the Functions had already taken place before we arrived. As the Bishop is so involved, he seldom gets away on time and so the next function is delayed. Indian Standard Time begins. The first ‘Function’ we were invited to was due to start at about 6.00pm, but the Bishop had been delayed by earlier business and didn’t arrive until after 9.00, food wasn’t served until 11.00pm. Jane was given a beautiful sari by the Women’s Fellowship, but it took a lot of learning how to wear it correctly.
We visited Khammam, a local town about the size of Gloucester, and the outbound local train was almost on time, but the long distance return express train was on Indian Standard Time and came in over ½ hour late. Morning prayers we were told were held in the Cathedral at 9.00am each morning, we were dubious as the Cathedral was being re-roofed and re-painted inside and out ready for Christmas and the rededication service by Bishop Michael; true to form, Indian Standard Time happened, and each morning we joined the Diocesan Staff in the Bishop’s Chapel at 9.30 –ish. The Christmas Day service began at 4.00am and ended with wonderful greetings at 7.00. Later on Christmas day, on English Time, we were able to talk to both Amanda and Nicola by Hotmail Conference.
Changing to Indian food took a little time. We are not given the mouth-blowing curries that some people thought we might, but even a mild curry for breakfast does wake you up! Despite wanting to eat with the boys, we were served our meals in our room; perhaps the boy’s meals would have contained far too many chillies for our stomachs. We both had clothes made for us, Jane a Salwar Kamise and Paul, 2 shirts and 2 pairs of trousers, which were to be ready for Christmas, but again Indian Standard Time happened and the clothes arrived for New Year. Despite the lack of haste, everybody is so kind and generous to us, it is no bother. During Christmas we received many invitations to spend time with extended families. We now have more than enough clothes, to ensure that we won’t have too much space in our luggage for the return journey. The picture below shows us with Christopher, our hostel superintendant, decked out in his Christmas best, Jane in her new Sari, and Paul’s new shirt.
We have settled in well. The people we meet are so welcoming and friendly that we feel very privileged. The climate is pleasant, with morning to evening sunshine and day time temperatures of 25 C. and a pleasant 18 C. at night. The countryside is very fertile, with chillies, cotton, rice, lentils and peanuts. It is much greener than we expected and Dornakal is a thriving town, very unlike the ghost town environment we expected. We have moved to Khammam and are staying at the St. Mary’s Polio Girl’s Hostel since the start of January, but we will tell you about that next month.
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